Showing posts with label Weed Control. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Weed Control. Show all posts

Just a few bare spots? Make a Seed Sandwich!

Locate your barespots and rake clean of any heavy debris.
Apply the premergent over the entire lawn and water in.
After 3 days, allowing time for the herbicide to activate, use a heavy rake to scratch the surface of each bare spot. Scratching the soil surface will break the vapor barrier created by the herbicide.
Topdress each barespot with 3/8 to 1/2 inch Peat Moss or Primerafc seed dressing.
Apply your new seed on top of PEAT MOSS/PRIMERAFC.
Cover new seed with an additional 1/4 inch of PEATMOSS/PRIMERAFC seed dressing. DO NOT USE TOPSOIL. Topsoil contains weed seeds. Keep damp with frequent light waterings.

Postemergence Weed Control

Postemergence applications are used primarily for the
control of broadleaf weeds and perennial grass weeds, but
they also can be used for annual grassy weeds if a preemergence
herbicide was not used or failed to control the weeds.
Postemergence weed control is most effective when the
weeds are young and actively growing, and when the soil is
moist and the temperature is warm. The grass should be
healthy and actively growing except when applications are
made to weeds in dormant turf.
Postemergence chemicals are applied to the foliage of
growing weeds. Avoid mowing for 2 to 3 days before and
after applying so there is more weed foliage to absorb the
chemical and translocate it to the roots. Apply the product
when rain is not expected for 24 hours after application. Also
avoid watering for 24 hours after applications.
Do not apply postemergence chemicals to turfgrass while
it is under heat or drought stress. Water the turf thoroughly
prior to application. Most postemergence chemicals should
not be applied when the temperature exceeds 85 to 90°F
during and after application.

Classes of Turf Weeds

Turf weeds are divided into five classes for determining
the appropriate method of control: (1) annual grasses,
(2) annual broadleaf weeds, (3) perennial grasses, (4) perennial
broadleaf weeds and (5) miscellaneous weeds. Annual
weeds are further classified as summer or winter annuals.
Summer annuals germinate in spring and die in fall, while
winter annuals germinate in fall and die in late spring.
Perennial weeds are further classified as warm-season or
cool-season to identify when they are prevalent and determine
when they should be controlled.

Annual grasses germinate, grow, and produce seeds each
year. They resemble desirable turfgrasses in their growth
habits, but differ in texture and color. Crabgrass and foxtail
are examples of annual grasses.
Annual broadleaf weeds also complete their life cycle
from seed within one year but generally require different
control measures from grass weeds. They contrast more
sharply from turfgrasses in form and texture. The leaf width
is often much broader than that of turfgrass. Examples of
annual broadleaf weeds include chickweed, henbit and
spurge.
Perennial grasses persist for more than one growing
season because of their perennial root system, even though
the topgrowth may die each winter. Most perennial grasses
cannot be selectively controlled in turfgrass. Some perennial
grasses such as Bermudagrass and tall fescue are weeds in
bluegrass lawns, for example, but by themselves can make a
desirable turf. Other perennial grass weeds are nimblewill
and quackgrass.
Perennial broadleaf weeds persist from year to year, but
can be selectively controlled in turfgrass. If perennial weeds
are to be chemically controlled, they must be actively
growing. Dandelions and bindweed are examples of
perennial broadleaf weeds.
Biennial weeds are treated as perennials for control
purposes. Biennials grow vegetatively for one year and
flower and seed in the second year. Examples include wild
carrot, mullein, and some thistles. Some weeds such as black
medic may fit more than one class.
Miscellaneous weeds include those that are neither true
grasses nor broadleaf weeds. Nutsedge, wild garlic, algae
and moss fall into this category. These sometimes require
special control methods.

Killing crabcrass to the curb


SUCCESSFUL CONTROL INCREASES WITH PREVENTION
The rules of crabgrass control are really very simple. Do nothing, and your lawn stands the chance of being overrun by this clumpy, coarse-textured, all-around unsightly weed. Take preventative action, on the other hand, and crabgrass can be kept in check.
MAINTAINING HEALTHY TURF IS THE FIRST STEP
Every lawn has crabgrass seeds in the soil, and these seeds are more likely to grow when turf doesn’t receive adequate care. Regular fertilization, proper mowing, good watering practices, and insect and disease control will all help to maintain a thick lawn that is less likely to be marred by crabgrass.


PRE-EMERGENTS TAKE IT A STEP FURTHER
For even better control, pre-emergent herbicides can be applied to you lawn. As their name suggests, pre-emergent herbicides stop crabgrass plants from emerging by inhibiting seed germination in the soil. To get the best results from pre-emergent, proper application, timing and follow-up care are essential. Pre-emergent should be on the lawn before crabgrass seeds begin germinating.Yearly applications are needed for ongoing control.Slightly heavier applications along sidewalks, driveways and streets are helpful, since these areas are more susceptible to crabgrass infestation.Applications should be watered in within five to seven days if there’s no rainfall.Heavy raking, dethatching or any other mechanical disruption of,the soil is not recommended after pre-emergent have been put down, since this will break up the control zone.
While it’s true that crabgrass is a formidable and very persistent pest, it can be managed successfully. A proactive combination of good lawn care practices and pre-emergent applications is the key.

Call Turf and Lawn Care today to learn more.



PLEASE NOTE: Pre-emergent herbicides will stop desirable grass seeds from growing as will. If you want to reseed you lawn, you should wait six to eight weeks after pre-emergent have been applied.

Pesticide Application for Homeowners

Use pesticides only when other control methods fail. Extensive use of pesticides can kill beneficial organisms that help keep pest populations under control.
• Read the label carefully – it tells how, when, and where to use the product.
• Apply the amount specified on the label and apply only to the plants and areas listed. Over-application is a waste of money and an environmental hazard.
• Wear protective clothing as directed on the label. Do not wash clothing contaminated with pesticides with other clothing.
• Make sure the pesticide is designated for use on the pest you want to control.
• Do not mix different pesticides unless instructed by the product directions.
• Keep pesticides in their original containers, so you know what they are and how to use them. (This is
law.)
• Do not apply pesticides if rain is imminent (unless specified on the label). Some pesticides do need to be watered-in after application, but rain or watering can wash others off plants, decreasing effectiveness, and contaminating lakes and streams. (Read the label.)
• Never spray pesticides on breezy days. The spray drifting in the wind poses a serious danger to nontarget plants and animals — including those in the neighbors’ yards.
• Never apply pesticides to highly erodible areas. When it rains, pesticides can easily be washed off these sites with eroding soil.
• Never apply pesticides near wells, streams, ponds or marshes unless instructions specifically allow for such uses.

Weed Time - Spring

If you don't think spring is here look out at your yard and if you see yellow flowers or purple buds that's weeds. This is the start of spring. Weeds can take over or start controlling your yard. One of the best products for weed control in the spring is Speed Zone made by PBI Gordon. You can find it at local stores like Grass Pad, Nuts & bolts or most of your local nurserys. Don't for get to grab Sticker, this will help stick to the weed. If you want ad a couple drops of dish soap.

A TIRED OR WORN OUT LAWN

Possible causes:
Compacted soil, poor drainage, weather conditions, weed infestation

Effect:
Poor conditions are preventing the right balance of air, water and fertilizer from reaching your lawn's root system, causing thinning and/or dead spots

Solution:
Core Aeration,
Silt seeding,
Overseeding

  •  Aeration and Broadcast Seeding- our premium service where the core of the soil is removed to allow more water vital nutrients to penetrate your lawn, encouraging optimal root growth. Core Aeration reduces soil compaction and helps break down thatch if present.
  • Silt Seeding- our premium service where a specialized machine cuts silts into the soil in which turf seeds are sown.
  • Overseeing- generally used for larger areas where the turf is thin but not bare
Determining the cause of your lawn decline is the first step in solving it.